Folkwear: Japanese Hapi & Haori

A paper sewing pattern by Folkwear.

Misses 6-20 (Hapi & Haori); Men's 34-44 (Hapi).

The Haori pattern is a thigh-length lined jacket which is sized for women. It has a straight front opening and a finished neckband which extends to the hem. The deep elbow-length curves sleeves are open next to the body the front and back are cut with no shoulder seam; there is a narrow side panel below the underarm opening.

The Haori is traditionally worn on special occasions by men. However it is also seen on women in traditional dress layered over a kimono for street wear. For formal occasions or everyday layered dressing, either jacket offers a special touch to any wardrobe.

The Hapi is a shop coat traditionally worn by storekeepers, craftsmen, and firemen over western-style clothing. It is sized for both men and women. Simple rectangles form the body, sleeves, neckband, and shoulder reinforcement for this unlined, fingertip-length garment.

Simple rectangular shapes are great for inventive color and texture combinations. This pattern includes silk screen fabric painting techniques and designs. A pattern for the tabi, the traditional split-toe slipper socks, is included.

Suggested fabrics: tor the Hapi, choose light to medium-weight soft or crisp cottons or blends; silks with body such as noil or shantung; linen; wool. For the Haori, choose light to medium-weight soft fabrics with drape such as silk, rayon, or blends. For the Tabi, choose medium-weight cotton or blends. Fabrics with nap, pile, or one-way design are not suitable for either jacket.

Fabric requirements: For the yardage chart at Folkwear.com follow this link.

Sewing Tip: Note that the hem edge curves slightly downward in the front and hangs nearly 2" longer at center front than center back. Some of the drawings show the front hem to be straight across, but this is not accurate.